There are trips where you ease into a destination. And then there are trips where you arrive by seaplane like a main character of a film and immediately feel like you’ve made an excellent life choice.

I landed in Cowichan Valley running on caffeine, deadlines, and sheer stubbornness. Life had been busy. Work had been busier. My brain felt like it had 107 tabs open across 5 different windows, two different profiles and at least 13 of those tabs were frozen.

So when I boarded a seaplane destined for Maple Bay on Vancouver Island with Jennifer and Ashlyn, I wasn’t searching for enlightenment. I was simply on autopilot, running headfirst into a media trip I was booked on without a plan for how I would execute anything related to it, or for what I was about to do at the upcoming Travel Media Association of Canada Conference in Richmond, which we were all attending afterward.

What followed in Cowichan Valley was two days of ocean air, historic boats, incredible views, unforgettable food, and enough adventure to remind me there’s a big difference between being busy and actually living.

Where is Cowichan Valley?

Located on southern Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Cowichan Valley sits approximately 45 minutes north of Victoria and stretches from the rugged Pacific coastline to the sheltered waters of the Salish Sea.

The region is made up of a collection of charming communities, including Cowichan Bay, Maple Bay, Duncan, Chemainus, Lake Cowichan, and Shawnigan Lake. Cowichan Valley offers visitors an incredible mix of culture, nature, food, and recreation.

Cowichan takes its name from “Quw’utsun,” the name the Quw’utsun people gave to the valley. Rooted in the Hul’q’umi’num word “shquw’utsun,” it translates to “to warm one’s back in the sun”.

Cowichan Valley is one of those places that feels worlds away from the city despite being remarkably easy to reach.

How to Get to Cowichan Valley

There are plenty of ways to reach the Cowichan Valley. You can drive from Victoria, take BC Ferries from the mainland, or fly into Victoria International Airport and rent a vehicle.

But if you’re looking to start your adventure the moment you leave Vancouver, I have a better suggestion. If your budget allows, book the seaplane. The views alone are worth it, and you’ll gain valuable vacation time instead of spending it travelling.

Our journey began at Vancouver’s South Terminal, where we boarded a Gulf Island Seaplanes flight bound for Maple Bay. I was travelling with Jennifer and Ashlyn (finally reunited for a Travel Media Association of Canada pre-tour), and let’s just say… the energy was high before we even got airborne. Within minutes of takeoff, the city disappeared behind us and was replaced by a stunning view of islands, forests, and sparkling coastline.

Twenty-five minutes later, we were stepping onto the dock in Maple Bay. No ferry lines. No traffic.

I’ll admit it: I’m a complete sucker for a dramatic entrance. Arriving by seaplane transformed what could have been a simple day of travel into one of the highlights of the trip.

Waiting for us at the dock was our guide, Andi with Tourism Vancouver Island, who, to his credit, willingly agreed to shepherd this particular girls’ trip for the next few days on a journey that would take us from Cowichan Valley to Nanaimo and Parksville/Qualicum Beach. Bold move, Andi.

Best Things to Do in Cowichan Valley: A 2-Day Itinerary from Maple Bay to Cowichan Bay

I’ll admit it: I’m a complete sucker for a dramatic entrance. Arriving by seaplane transformed what could have been a simple day of travel into one of the highlights of the trip.

Also – it’s easy to fall in love with places when you travel. Cowichan Valley stole my heart. Within hours, I was fantasizing about looking at real estate and relocating.

The first two days of the adventure on Vancouver Island were spent in Cowichan Valley. Here are my favourite experiences there and the hotel we stayed in. Hope you’re inspired to check them out too!

Sailing Maple Bay with Traditional Oar & Sail

Our first stop: out on the water with Traditional Oar and Sail, where we met Barbara and Stephen at the Maple Bay Marina. They’re equal parts storytellers, sailors, and quiet legends of the Salish Sea.

We stepped aboard Lux, a Red Cedar vessel originally built in the early 1980s as a Sea Scouts training ship. She’s travelled everywhere from Desolation Sound to Puget Sound, and you can feel that history the second you’re on deck.

What makes this experience hit? It’s the mix of effort and stillness in the salty air, on the glassy water. The views of the houseboats in the harbour. The mountains that surround us.

As much as I love the mountains and forests, if you really want to know where my heart is, it’s on the water. Give me a paddle, a canoe, a kayak, a sailboat, or even just a dock to sit on, and I’m happy. There is something about being surrounded by water that quiets the constant chatter in my brain. Whatever the reason, water has always been where I feel most at peace. Which is a little ironic considering I’m a Gemini, an air sign (close to the cusp with Taurus, an earth sign). Apparently, the universe got that one wrong.

So stepping aboard these beautiful wooden boats in Maple Bay didn’t just feel like another activity on the itinerary. It felt like coming home.

But this isn’t a passive cruise in the Salish Sea. We also got hands-on with their sixerns, traditional six-oared fishing boats inspired by Shetland Island designs, built locally on Galiano Island. Translation: you will paddle.

You will earn your ocean views. If you’re an experienced paddler, like me, it’s easy. If you’re willing to learn how to do it, you’ll love it too.

Malahat SkyWalk: Fresh Air, Big Views, Zero Chill

Then we traded sea level for sky-high at Malahat SkyWalk.

THE. VIEWS. Honestly, I don’t think my photos do this place justice.

You wind your way up a gentle spiral through the trees until suddenly you’re above it all—coastline, forest, ocean, mountains layered in every direction. It’s the kind of view that makes you stop mid-sentence.

As much as the water grounds me, this is where my adventurous side comes alive. Give me mountain vistas, towering forests, and the chance to climb above the treetops, and I’m in my element. Maybe there is a little truth to being an air sign after all; part of me will always be chasing the sky.

The walk to the top of the spiral tower is gentle, making it accessible for almost everyone, but every turn reveals another incredible perspective over the forests, islands, mountains, and the Salish Sea. This attraction is 100% accessible, so everyone, including those with scooters, wheelchairs, and strollers, can get there.

Then you reach the top. Cue the goosebumps. The fresh Vancouver Island air filled my lungs as I stood there taking in what felt like an endless panorama of mountains and coastline. It’s one of those places that reminds you just how small you are in the very best way.

I could have stayed up there for hours.

Also: yes, there’s a giant spiral slide back down.

Also: yes, I took it.

And to add – we were there mere days before The Overhang was installed. It looks incredible!

Deerholme Farm: A Meal That Connected Me To the Land

If the water calmed me and the mountain air filled my lungs, then Deerholme Farm grounded me. Dinner at Deerholme Farm wasn’t just a highlight; it was the moment.

Chef Bill Jones (Michelin-trained, casually brilliant) is doing something really special here. His property feels like a curated chaos of gardens, towering trees, wild ingredients, and a wonderful, weird, whimsical creative energy. It doesn’t feel like you’ve arrived at a restaurant. It feels like you’ve been invited into someone’s home, someone who happens to see the forest, fields, and coastline as one enormous pantry.

As a Michelin-trained chef, Bill could have taken the fine dining route. Instead, he chose to celebrate what grows, forages, and flourishes in Cowichan Valley. Every dish tells a story of the forest, the fields, and the coastline surrounding his farm. He connects diners to the land in a way I’ve never experienced before.

We experienced the Spring Wild Foods menu, and I would follow this man into the woods without question if it meant eating like this again:

• Mushroom stuffed with stinging nettle and wild onion béchamel (my first-ever stinging nettle experience—10/10, no notes)
• Seared albacore tuna with truffle honey and wild onion
• Barley broth with smoked chicken and wild greens
• Wild greens salad with fiddleheads and seaweed aioli
• Elk with mushrooms over soft polenta and stinging nettle
• Chocolate and wild raspberry cake with bigleaf maple crème anglaise

Every course arrived with a story. Bill explained what we were eating, where it had been foraged, why it grows here, and how the changing seasons shape his menu. Ingredients I’d walked past a hundred times in the woods without a second thought- stinging nettles, fiddleheads, wild onions- were transformed into something extraordinary.

It made me realize how disconnected most of us have become from the landscapes around us. We admire nature. We hike through it. We photograph it. But how often do we actually taste it? What surprised me most wasn’t simply trying new ingredients; it was how I felt afterwards. There was a lightness I wasn’t expecting. Whether it was the incredibly fresh ingredients, the nutrient-rich wild foods, or simply two days spent breathing ocean air, I can’t say. But I left feeling different.

It’s hard to describe without sounding a little ridiculous, but the best way I can explain it is this: I felt more awake. My senses felt sharper, and I found myself appreciating the world around me in a way I hadn’t for quite some time. By the end of the evening, I wasn’t just full; I felt connected. Connected to the land beneath my feet, to the people who know it so intimately, and to the incredible flavours that can only come from slowing down to appreciate what’s growing all around us.

Whatever the reason, that feeling stayed with me long after dinner ended and followed me into the next morning, on an early morning walk along the Cowichan Bay village.

Where to Stay in Cowichan Bay: Oceanfront Suites

I’ll admit, when we first pulled into Oceanfront Suites at Cowichan Bay, I thought, “Oh, this is a quaint little waterfront motel.”

I was completely wrong. What you don’t realize until you step inside is that you’ve actually arrived at the top of the property. Built into the hillside overlooking the bay, the hotel extends several floors below the entrance, allowing every level to take advantage of the spectacular ocean views.

When I opened the door to my suite, I actually stopped for a moment. A king sized bed, living room and well apppointed kitchen to indulge in. Too bad it was just for one night!

Hopefully, this has inspired your travel group to consider Cowichan Ball or Cowichan Valley as a base for some of the best outdoor activities and cultural experiences in Vancouver Island. And if so, if you book a stay at a property using this link below, you’ll earn me a very small commission for my work at no extra cost to you!

Floor-to-ceiling windows framed Cowichan Bay like a painting. Fishing boats drifted quietly across the water, seabirds glided overhead, and I had a juliet balcony. It was one of those views that immediately tells you to unpack your bags, pour yourself a drink, and cancel any unnecessary plans. Wish I was staying here longer!

That evening, I left the balcony door open as I fell asleep.

Being on Pacific Time meant my Eastern Time body clock had me awake long before everyone else the next morning. I woke naturally to cool coastal air instead of the sound of an alarm clock.

After a day spent sailing, feasting, and exploring, it was the perfect way to slow down and let Cowichan Valley work its magic. Better yet, Oceanfront Suites is within easy walking distance of Cowichan Bay’s waterfront shops, galleries, restaurants, and marina, so I simply slipped on my shoes and headed out the door.

A Slow Morning in Cowichan Bay

With no agenda beyond following the morning light, I wandered the quiet waterfront. Being awake before everyone else gave me the rare opportunity to have Cowichan Bay almost entirely to myself. Nothing opens before 8:00 a.m., which meant no cinnamon buns (tragic), but somehow the smell of them drifting through the village made me want one even more.

Fishing boats bobbed in the harbour. It was peaceful, unhurried.

Eventually, the rest of the group surfaced, we grabbed coffee at a nearby plaza, and it was time to hit the road.

Hiking to Kinsol Trestle on the Trans Canada Trail

We headed out along the Cowichan Valley Trail, part of the larger Trans Canada Trail, for a 3.3 km hike to the Kinsol Trestle.

And this is where Cowichan quietly flexes. The trestle rises 44 metres above the Koksilah River and stretches nearly 200 metres across. It’s massive, historic, and genuinely impressive when you step out onto it.

There’s also a side trail if you want to explore more, but here’s the thing you need to know:

No cell service.

Which, depending on your mood, is either terrifying or exactly what you needed.

Final Thoughts on Visiting Cowichan Valley

I arrived in Cowichan Valley burnt out.

Work deadlines. Life responsibilities. The never-ending to-do list. When I boarded the seaplane in Vancouver, I was running on caffeine, stubbornness, and sheer momentum.

Somewhere between the water, the air, and the earth, the spark came back.

Maybe it was the salt air in Maple Bay. Maybe it was paddling a traditional sixern across the water. Maybe it was standing high above the trees at Malahat SkyWalk with fresh air filling my lungs. Or maybe it was Michelin-trained Chef Bill Jones introducing me to stinging nettles, wild greens, and ingredients I couldn’t have identified if my life depended on it.

Water calmed me.

Air lifted me.

Earth nourished me.

Whatever it was, somewhere over those two days, the fog lifted. That’s what I hope you’ll find here, too.

Not just spectacular views, incredible food, or unforgettable adventures, although you’ll find plenty of those. I hope you leave with the same feeling I did: a little lighter, a little more present, and reminded that sometimes the best journeys aren’t the ones that take us the farthest from home. They’re the ones that bring us back to ourselves.

Although we were heading north for more adventures through Nanaimo, Parksville, and Qualicum Beach, I made a pact with myself that I’d be back. Next time, I’d bring my kids. And I’d stay much, much longer.

Cowichan Valley Quick Planning Guide

When is the Best Time to Visit Cowichan Valley?

Cowichan Valley is a year-round destination, but late spring through early fall offers the best conditions for hiking, sailing, kayaking, and exploring the region’s outdoor attractions. Summer brings warm temperatures, long days, and bustling waterfront villages, while spring and fall offer fewer crowds and spectacular scenery.

How Many Days Do You Need in Cowichan Valley?

I recommend spending at least three days in Cowichan Valley. Two days is enough time to experience many of the region’s highlights, including Malahat SkyWalk, Kinsol Trestle, Cowichan Bay, and a memorable dining experience. A long weekend or 3-4 days allows additional time to explore wineries, beaches, hiking trails, and nearby communities.

Top Experiences in Cowichan Valley

If you’re short on time, these were my favourite experiences:

• Sailing Maple Bay with Traditional Oar & Sail
• Taking in the views from Malahat SkyWalk
• Hiking to Kinsol Trestle on the Trans Canada Trail
• Enjoying a wild food dining experience at Deerholme Farm
• Exploring the waterfront village of Cowichan Bay

Closest Airport to Cowichan Valley

Most visitors arrive via Victoria International Airport (YYJ) or by ferry from the mainland. For a much more memorable arrival, consider flying into Maple Bay by seaplane from Vancouver’s YVR South Terminal with Gulf Island Seaplanes. The flight takes approximately 25 minutes and offers incredible aerial views of the Gulf Islands and southern Vancouver Island.